Just because it’s fall, doesn’t mean we have to say so long to the bright summery tacos of the roadside taquerias and mobile food units. I love to adjust the basic ingredients of a good counter-top taco mill with the seasons. And fall ingredients can make the heartiest, tastiest tacos of all.

I learned to love authentic Mexican food in Mexico both as a child and a travel-loving adult. With a sister living in Arizona, finding phenomenal regional Mexican cuisine in the American Southwest helps to take the customs crossings out of the equation.

Under the umbrella of Southwestern regional cuisine, Mexican, Spanish and Native American heritage finds shelter in Tex-Mex (beef fajitas), Sonoran-style (the chimichanga), Cal-Mex (fish tacos) and New Mexican-style (green chile stew and rellenos casseroles), for example.

More than 200 varieties of chiles add fire to Southwestern food. Chiles come fresh or dried. Often they are roasted or smoked, and sometimes packed in adobo sauce. Chiles can be mild, like the Anaheim; medium, like the dark green poblano (perfect for rellenos); or super-hot, like the habanero.

Grill fall vegetables like winter squash, potatoes and shiitakes and wrap in tortillas with an eggplant and ancho-chile spread. Achieve a rich, smoky taste with marinated skirt steak and a pecan-chipotle salsa. Or go fresh with seasonal fish with lentils and onions pickled in a local apple cider. •

Manna Cabanna will serve up local seasonal tacos at the Nov. 5 Tryon Beer Festival in downtown Tryon from 12-6 p.m.

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The Flank Steak (marinated): Yield: 4-6 servings

1/3 cup chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish

1/2 small red onion, chopped

1/2 medium serrano chile, with seeds

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 pounds trimmed skirt steak, cut crosswise into
4- to 5-inch pieces

12 warmed corn tortillas, for serving

Shredded carrots, pickled jalapeños and chopped white onion, for garnish

• In a food processor, combine the cilantro with the red onion, serrano chile, garlic, lime juice, 1 tablespoon of olive oil, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Puree until nearly smooth. Scrape the marinade into a large resealable plastic bag. Add the steak pieces and turn until well coated. Seal the bag and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight.

• Remove the steak from the marinade and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.

• Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Brush the steak with oil and season with salt and pepper. Oil the grill grates and grill the steak over high heat, turning once or twice, until lightly charred outside and medium-rare within, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer the steak to a carving board, let rest for 5 minutes and slice across the grain; serve with the tortillas, garnishes, pecan-chipotle salsa and limes.

The Pecan-Chipotle Salsa Yield: 1 cup, can be made up to five days in advance

3 dried chipotle chiles [small, purplish-red],
whipped clean and stemmed

½ cup pecans, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

½ cup finely chopped white onion

1 medium garlic clove, finely chopped

½ teaspoon kosher salt

• Preheat a dry small pan over medium-low heat and toast the chiles, turning them over occasionally, until they have puffed up and blistered in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer them to a blender along with ½ cup of water.

• Preheat the oven to 350⁰F and toast the pecans in one layer on a baking sheet, shaking once or twice, until they are two shades darker and very fragrant, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer them to a blender. Blend the mixture to form a slightly chunky puree, gradually adding more water if necessary to blend.

• Wipe the small pan clean, add the oil and set the pan over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the onion and garlic and cook just until the onion is translucent and soft, about 2 minutes. Add the blended mixture to the pan, then pour 1 tablespoon of water into the blender to loosen the remaining puree and pour it into the pan.

• Add the salt and let the mixture come to a strong simmer, stirring constantly, then turn off the heat. Let the salsa cool, then season it to taste with more salt.