How about them apples?
Published 10:00 pm Monday, October 10, 2016
The morning temperatures are dropping, autumn leaves are falling, and apples are appearing at roadside stands. This can only mean one thing. It’s time for apple pie.
I dig out my 50-year-old Better Homes and Gardens cookbook, broken binding, pages torn and faded, but still my old standby when I want a good, basic recipe. The tried and true recipe that I always return to is called “Perfect Apple Pie.” What could be better?
It’s a basic recipe but I think the ingredient that brings out the flavor in this pie is the fresh grated nutmeg. If you’ve never grated your own nutmeg, head to the store and by a jar of whole nutmeg. Purchase a little grater at your local kitchen shop. The flavor of fresh nutmeg is worth the extra trouble it takes to grate a pinch of nutmeg into your pie.
That all sounds simple, get a recipe, purchase some apples, make a crust or when in a hurry, buy a frozen one. The challenge, when you stop by your favorite apple stand, is choosing the right apples. I’ve been doing some research and I will share my findings with you. I’ve discovered that it can be a highly personal decision. People can be fiercely adamant about what they think is the best apple to use.
I’ll start with a recent issue of Southern Living with suggestions about apple trees to plant in your yard. Well, that sounds like an organic idea but growing your own trees might take a little longer than you want to wait to get apples.
The article does give some clues as to how best to use each type. Arkansas Black, an old variety available in the South, gets a star for longevity in cool temperatures. They recommend it for baking, frying, apple butter, or cider. They like Granny Smith for pies and applesauce, but it’s not a favorite of mine. I do like the Arkansas Blacks for good flavor in pie.
I decide to turn to the Internet and discover a site, sweets.seriouseats.com where I search “the best apples for apple pie.” I click on their food lab results where I learn all I ever needed to know about apples. They have one major tip about apple pie. If you can buy your apples local and in season, they will truly make the best apple pie.
The food lab rates Golden Delicious and Braeburns as the best apples for pie. I have my own choices but I will list some of their comments regarding different varieties.
Gala: Mild and sweet with a fair amount of tartness. They resist bruising. On a pie rating of 1-10, they rate a six. When baked they hold their shape but can be grainy.
As I mentioned, I’ve discovered that people have loyalty to different apples. Recently a highly praised restaurant chef shared that Galas are his favorite apple for pie. But since it’s a sweet apple, he uses half the sugar.
Cortland: Sweet and tart, white flesh and mild flavor. Pie rating: a four because it lacks flavor. However, the King Arthur Flour website offers a recipe for “Sue’s Favorite Apple Pie” which does call for Cortlands.
McIntosh: Sweet and mildly tart. Pie rating is only three because they tend to get mushy. However, this is my favorite apple for pie. It’s a northern apple, usually found in cold weather areas. One website had comments showing that many people from the Northeast said they like their pie mushy. I guess I fall into that category.
Granny Smith: Very bright and tart. Rating is a five as it holds up well when cooking but not much apple-y flavor. For me, Granny Smith’s are too tart but I suspect that many of you will disagree. And there’s something about an apple being green. I think it’s not really ripe. I guess I’m a bit “old school.”
Golden Delicious: Sweet, tart, and almost buttery, it earns a pie rating of eight for the best flavor of any apple when baked. This is my sister’s favorite apple. As I mentioned, we all have our loyalties and she and I have a conflict when it comes to our apples.
Braeburn: This also rates well with a seven, becoming almost pear-like when cooked. I’ve never used Braeburns but might try it in my next pie, which with cooler temperatures moving in, could be soon.
Some people like to mix their apples. Recently I met a customer at the Farmer’s Market purchasing a bag of several different varieties of apples. She said she likes to make a pie combining the apples to bring out different flavors.
Pie crust recipes also vary according to the cook, some use butter, some use shortening, and the old farm recipes call for lard. Yes, you can still buy lard and I’ve read recently that it’s making a comeback.
I am sometimes a lazy cook and turn to shortcuts. If my schedule is full, but I’m craving a pie, I head to Ingles frozen section and pick up a Marie Callender’s frozen pie crust. I’ve tried other brands, and Marie’s is my favorite. One tip passed on to me, suggests poking holes in the bottom and sides of the crust. Pre-bake it in the oven for about eight minutes at 400 degrees, which helps keep the crust from getting soggy from the juices produced during baking.
Happy baking! Have fun trying the different varieties of apples available now at the farmers markets and produce stands. You might discover a new favorite.